Paris – Doja Cat took its front row at Balmain’s Fall Show at Paris Fashion Week, just out of its Oscar appearance with a personalized Balmain dress with accounts. But on the track, designer Olivier Rousteing changed from the opulence of the red carpet to a new type of luxury, built on sculptural knit garments, draped of fluids and dazzling motifs of zebra zebra.
The collection on Wednesday night opened with a now familiar silhouette of Rousteing, a hooded sweater, this time combined with a leather peplum and relaxed leather pants. The knitted fabrics remained the focus: the draped mohair, the wool sweater dresses and the cocoon sweaters gave the collection a feeling of ease.
The monochromatic “Groutfit” made a great performance, broken by the rich textural game of folds, rich tops and relief leather that prevented the palette from falling flat.
That softness found its counterweight in the hardware of the statements and an animal energy flash. Thick bracelets, claw earrings and that daring reason for graphic zebra, combined with large coats and comfortable boots, reminded us of Balmain.
The footwear stood out. The sculpturally twisted bombs and diffuse or soft leather boots injected a playful contrast in the rhythm of black, white and citrus orange bursts of the collection.
Although the emphasis on draped and ease was a change, Balmain’s DNA shone in accessories. Rousteing experiment with volume was felt as a recalibration instead of a reinvention, which demonstrates once again that luxury is not just about excess, but knowing when to let clothes breathe.
